More like Randolph Scott than John Wayne although Olivia now prefers to be known as Joanna Wayne having passed the advanced course on how to scare away wild dogs?These bus shelters are a blessing when its scorching hot providing both shade and a seat for our water stops – not that we need to sit down when we do that for most of the day on the bikes.We had read about the Green Angels during our research for the trip although in 13 weeks this was the first time we had seen one. They are essentially volunteers who patrol the main roads (toll roads we think, not the ones we use) and are available to help stranded motorists. We weren’t stranded and we weren’t motorists, however, he was happy to pose for the picture.Yes, this is the road through the jungle. There is hardly anything to break the monotony.The new bikes with some of their attachments and adjustments and our bodies having to realign themselves with a slightly different riding position. A restaurant at Muyil, only 12 miles (20km) from Tulum where we thought we could stay nearby because we were told there was nowhere for the next 50 miles (80 km) and to do 60+ miles in this heat with no shade was pushing both ourselves and the new bikes about which we were still unsure. But wait. Here we met a taxi driver who said there was a park with a shop and fresh running water where we could camp about 18 miles away (25 km). We decided to give it a go because it would make it two even distance riding days instead of one very short day and a much longer day.Exactly 25 km later we saw the ‘park’ at the side of the road. We were led to believe it was in the middle of the jungle because there was not any running water, a small generator for the fridge and electricity, no internet and no shower.This is the shop where they sell packets of biscuits and snacks, soft drinks and/or cigarettes (one man bought 2 single cigarettes only) mainly to the lorry drivers from what we saw.You will see this is mainly a garden centre business and the park in the middle is a patch of grass large enough for our tent and the two bikes to be chained to a tree and to each other although we are screened from the passing traffic on the road some 50 metres away.The owner Juan was enthusiastic to show us his plans to build a temple here and they are on display for all to see.This is the taxi driver we randomly met in the aforementioned restaurant 25 km back the road who had driven all this way to tell his father (we only discovered their relationship at the garden centre) we were on the way because the father didn’t have a ‘phone. As with our previous encounter with a good Samaritan in Cuidad del Carmen when the rear wheel split on David’s old bike this man is also called Jesus.We are happy to have somewhere to camp for the night that is in the middle of this stretch of the jungle which is not actually in the jungle – we’re only 50 metres from the road.This is our kind and generous host for the night, Juan, who refused a single peso for letting us use his grounds for a campsite.We cannot have clean linen and showers every night it would seem. At least we do not have to be concerned for noisy neighbours – there are none for 20 miles in either direction.Our screen from the road so we cannot be seen. The night was memorable for two reasons; the melodic birdsong for the hour before sunset, and again at sunrise, and the outstanding starlit sky – there is not any light pollution here.Juan and his wife Dona Maria Lena have a traditional Mayan house and outbuildings where they have lived for 30 years.The kitchen and dining area whilst under cover is all out in the open – pleased we are not here in the wet season.
The bedroom area – you are probably wondering why the sheets are tied above the bed and hammock area as if to catch something? The snakes sometimes wriggle themselves into the thatched roof and fall down and this is to prevent the occupants of the bed and hammock from waking up to uninvited guests.The blanket is a makeshift toilet door because it opens onto the road – the bucket is to flush the toilet bowl because it doesn’t have a flush. The shower will be next door at some stage.It would be fascinating to see professional chefs cook in this environment.These were popular in the 1960’s in the UK because David’s Dad had one and this is still working well.This oven is fired by wood and has 3 different burners with 3 different temperature settings.It doesn’t matter how limited the surroundings are it is essential for some of us to have a hot drink to start the day.It would be hard to find a more happy and contented couple than Juan and Dona Maria Lena.
This is Juan singing a song asking for us to be protected for the remainder of our journey. Bless him.
Mexico and Belize 