Apologies, dear reader. This is the best look your humble scribe can manage at 6.30am.Another change of plan. Everyone we had spoken to about our intention to ride the length of the Hummingbird Highway (promoted as the most scenic route in the country) was met with the same advice. The road is too narrow for cyclists, there is no shoulder, the drivers are crazy, the bends and hilltops are blind and, it’s so quiet with traffic you could be attacked and robbed. In short we decided to take a bus from Independence to Belmopan and ride from there to San Ignacio. The bikes and luggage are in the hold for the next 2.5 hours.The picture quality dropped down a level because the views are through unclean bus windows and the sky is overcast. Our spirits were also deflated because this was a really scenic route taking us into the hills, around 250 metres of height, and away from the sea level for the first time in 2 months. The advice we were given proved to be correct; the driver drove far too fast for the conditions and he was not alone given the reckless overtaking manoeuvres we saw by him and others.This is the Dangriga bus station, a place we had already visited when cycling along the coast.
Bus travel.
In Belmopan we find a quiet spot to reassess our situation, repack the bikes and set off for San Ignacio.Belmopan does not have much to recommend it other than its cycle lanes. Belize City used to be the capital until Hurricane Hattie blew in during 1961 and devastated the city. The decision was made to relocate the capital to Belmopan far away from the coast and in the hills. It is a very functional working town full of public buildings, embassies, well ordered streets and dull empty recreational areas.
The scenery changes dramatically from the endless flat we have been used to for weeks. It is now gently rolling hills, very rural with a succession of colourful villages to pass through with names like, Roaring Creek, Teakettle, Unitedville and Ontario.The Chinese have quite a presence in this country from technological research at this location to running all the supermarkets, some restaurants and being co-founders in the upgrade of the roads with the Belize government.It is immediately obvious that this area is more prosperous than many other we have visited with large farms for dairy, beef, chicken and arable produce. There are also large areas dedicated to sugar cane productionGiven the ladies dress outfits we think this is a Mennonite community kick about for both genders.
We’re a lot happier on this road because it is smooth, not too busy and has a shoulder for us to use.David often wonders at these views because of its similarity with his home county – minus the palm trees, naturally.
It is beyond us to explain how such a beautiful country tolerates the abandonment of vehicles and homes that are no longer of any use! Proof, if it were needed, that they are sympathetic to cyclists on this road; it helps to overcome the disappointment of missing out on riding the Hummingbird Highway.Journey’s end, for this leg, in San Ignacio.. We have a private room in a Hostal with our bikes in the basement next to our room chained together and to the manager’s motorbike for extra security.Maybe we shouldn’t be so concerned about security because the manager’s main bike is a large, new, Harley Davidson which he parks out on the road, and we are opposite the local Police Station. On the other hand, once bitten, twice shy!
Mexico and Belize 