Author: lovely davoli

From Champoton to Campeche

Before you all leap to the conclusion Sally has redirected us to another continent, there is a place called China not so far away. It did make us smile on what was proving to be a more challenging day than she had promised us. We knew we had at least 180 metres of climbing inland before returning to the coast again over 80 km; in reality it became 425 metres of climbing…….thank you Sally.
One of our more entertaining coconut stops with these two characters and the first one for several days. They had no idea what to charge us and settled for 30 pesos for two – we normally pay 60 – 80 pesos.
We never tire of these coastal views.
For a town of 250,000 people the road on the way into Campeche was not too grand – it was the old road and not the new motorway, to be fair – although there was some immaculate looking property on the left hand side of the road, all of which were on the waterfront. We decided before we arrived that we’re going to need a two day rest here because this day has really taken it out of us.
We were extremely lucky with this hotel; the view is taken from our table in the restaurant opposite where we eat. Two doors to the left is the bike shop we need; three doors to the left of that is the convenience shop we go to resupply our water bottles, and a two minute walk to the right is a dental hygenist which is needed for David to maintain his oral hygiene routine.
This chap, after 20 minutes of adjusting the spokes, gave us full confidence that we were back to normal with the rear wheel. He also redirected us to another bike shop where we bought replacement spokes for both bikes so we can do the repairs ourselves if we’re stuck in the sticks if the same problem occurs again.
Two rest days means three dinners and three breakfasts and an opportunity to work our way through this very well worn menu. The meals met the three main criteria, cheap, good and plentiful – 10 euros or less for the two of us, including drinks.
The bike shop where we bought the spare spokes – we liked the name!
Not sure we would get very far with this one?
VW vehicles are everywhere regardless of their vintage; unsure how this is roadworthy?
The entrance to the walled city of Campeche which is the focus for its main source of income – tourism. Unsurprisingly it is a World Heritage site listed area and features prominently in the LP guide. There are fellow foreigners everywhere and we have a break from being the centre of attention wherever we go.
We consider placing an offer for the cannon – it would come in useful for seeing off the wild dogs.
Another sight we never tire of seeing is the well preserved Spanish colonial style of architecture with their pastel shades of colour.
The main plaza is where the official tours seem to begin and end.
Valet parking with cardboard provided to ensure the seats do not become overheated in the sun.
David is not exactly a culture vulture although he was easily persuaded to visit the on site museum and learn something about Mayan culture.
In case an explanation is needed the man on the left is a statue. The lady on the right is asleep.
Exploring the 7 km long waterfront with its own cycle path – not something we’re used to on our travels.
This monument is titled ‘the gateway to the sea’.
An unusual sight. Our first downpour in daylight hours.

From Sabancuy to Champoton

Crossing the road back over the lagoon taking us to the main road beside the Gulf.
The lagoon flows into the sea at this point enabling the local fishermen to have direct access to larger fish stocks,
The reason the roads are so empty is because there is a toll road further inland which enables the lorries to reach their destinations faster; also there is nowhere on this two day stretch big enough to need deliveries from large lorries.
We have seen a few abandoned places like this; a pity really given their stunning location.
Anyone want a beach with palm trees all to themselves?
Floppy hats with flaps are a must now; temperatures are well into the 30’s in the shade.
We thought initially this was a breakwater that the Pelicans were using as their perch………
…….it soon became apparent that it wasn’t a breakwater although it has clearly been man made.
If only all our drink stops were this well situated? We would probably never cycle another kilometre? The only resort open in a 60 km ride. There were three other guests having lunch in a place designed to accommodate 100 diners. We were only there 20 minutes much to their disappointment. We were ‘burning daylight’ and had 40 km still to go.
Pampas grass reappearing unexpectedly.
Champoton. The first sunset we’ve seen since leaving Spain, and what a special one it was?
Champoton is the first sizeable town we visit since leaving Carmen and attracts many lorries so it looks like we shall once again have company tomorrow.

From Cd del Carmen to Isla Aguada

We are awakened for the second morning by the sound of helicopters (not this one) who begin delivering their human cargo to the nearby oil rigs as soon as its daylight and are on the go all day until darkness falls.
So. We leave Carmen for the second day in a row needing to cover the first 25 km again. The traffic, being a Sunday, is less than the day before. We are not entirely convinced that yesterday’s repair is as good as it could be so we are slightly nervous about the rear wheel making it to Campeche.
Our first view of Isla Aguada from the 3km bridge which links it to the mainland. Thankfully the wind had subsided and we didn’t need to walk this bridge.
Another bridge, another toll booth except cyclists are counted as pedestrians and we don’t pay – they also provide us with our own lane to the right hand side so no queueing either.
Looks like we’ve found another quaint little village/town beside the seaside which the LP guide doesn’t list – even better.
Waiting for a nice long cold lemonade drink.
We really appreciate the drivers of these 18 wheelers; of all the vehicles we encounter they give us the most space and respect on the road.
This little girl is actually selling things from her bike and these two buckets – maybe it pays for her to go to school? Who knows?
The bridge we arrived on and an almost empty beach.
Its a Sunday. Family day. Height of the season. We have to share this beautiful beach with two other people!
Having seen wildlife documentaries we know the turtles don’t come up the beach in daylight to lay their eggs – not sure if it’s the right time of year?
The turtle egg laying area is well defined and clearly marked.
A beach casting fisherman – a not very successful one judging by the empty bucket behind us.
Behind us is a Recreational Vehicle camp site which has motorhomes registered in Oregon and Idaho. First time we have seen fellow non Latinos for around three weeks.
Whilst we enjoy a leisurely sight seeing stroll some people have to work.
We have decided on a day off and time to catch up with the blog posts. The room was large enough for us and the two bikes, however, we needed the space provided by the reception area for hot desking.

Isla Aguada to Sabancuy

Feeling refreshed from our rest day we set off again in search of new adventures.
Another quiet day on the road beside the sea and, thankfully, no oil rigs.
Every so often we pass small resorts that are not in use; strange considering it is high season.
Another delightful town 1.5 km inland across a lagoon which is not included in the LP guide.
Delightful, quiet, and very friendly……….again.
Charming, quaint with pastel shades in evidence frequently.
Many places have yet to dismantle their Christmas decorations.
Both Olivia and David make a large catch within two hours of arrival.
Another resort empty of visitors. We asked the owner of the restaurant we ate in about this and he said it was too humid for Mexicans and they will leave it until Easter to arrive. Fine by us. We like it quiet and it makes it easier to find accommodation without having to book in advance.
It was too early for us to eat from this street vendor although the food looked good. They would never have had our business unless they turned down the extremely loud music. Fortunately most people do when we ask them to.
Another town where no expense is spared on the adventure playground for the children, the church, and most likely the cemetery although we never saw that on this occasion; to be fair to them the whole town was well cared for with a minimum amount of rubbish lying around.
We are always impressed by the murals wherever they are painted.
The main plaza and some expressions of love.

From Cd del Carmen to Isla Aguada first try

And off we set again…………………or so we think?
We’re rarely far from the sea and Palm Trees by the thousand.
We hadn’t missed these sights, however, they provide prosperity to the people who live nearby and we cannot help notice how better maintained the towns are that benefit from the oil drilling platforms.
We are suspecting a problem with David’s rear wheel, the same wheel that had a new rim fitted ten days ago. We’re 25 km from Carmen and no sizeable town for almost 200 km to properly access the damage. We decided to return to Carmen (population 200,000) where we were hoping a solution could be found.
We tried to wave down pick ups and larger vehicles, however, no one was interested…..
The local bus service tried to help but he could only take one bike in his boot (there was already one in there) and we were not going to separate either ourselves, bikes or luggage.
Whilst recovering from the disappointment of the bus not being able to take us these friendly helpful chaps (angels in orange) pulled over and gave us a ride in their pick up on top of the rusty pipes and iron plates they had replaced today – they were oil industry welders.
When we have time we will list how many European highway laws we broke during the course of this return journey to Carmen. Riding in the back of pick ups is a national past time here and the only thing that made others stare at us was that we were sharing with Mexicans. Our leading rescuer is called Jesus (believe us when we say we’re not making this up). This is probably the only time we could be caught for speeding?
First part of the rescue was to return the ‘company’ vehicle to base.
The second part of the rescue from these road angels was to transfer our kit and bikes to one of the chaps own pick ups because he knew a bicycle shop that could help us.
Olivia was upgraded to Business Class for this trip whilst David remained ‘in the hold’ with the bikes.
This is the source of our salvation – our lady engineer identified four loose spokes, one of which had a missing nipple. We were going nowhere without this being remedied.
The wheel had to be taken to another workshop across town to carry out the adjustments.
She was a lady of few words, however, she seem to know what she was doing.
A Chinese takeaway was a welcome sight after the highs and lows of the afternoon.

From Nuevo Progreso to Ciudad del Carmen

The water level had risen on this side road from yesterday due to the early morning storm so we had to leave the same way we arrived, by going around the block.
Walking was the safest option until we reached firmer ground.
We really enjoy the times when the road almost touches the sea. Today the wind is coming over our left shoulder for most of the time and is fairly lively in strength.
Approaching Carmen in the distance – there is a 4km road bridge we need to navigate first before entering the town.
To approach this bridge we had to turn into the wind (30+ kph) so it was time to walk again. The road lanes and shoulder were too narrow for us to risk riding because of the gusts of wind.
An hour and ten minutes to walk/push our bikes 4 km reminded us very much of the road bridges over the Florida Keys – we would never be allowed to do this there!
We are always fascinated by the local interpretations of art wherever we go.
Some examples of colonial architecture in this town although it is not World Heritage site listed……

Frontera-Nuevo Progreso

At the risk of stating the obvious we are still in wetland territory; very humid and the temperatures are beginning to exceed 30c in the shade.
Although we are privileged to experience stunning natural scenery on a daily basis, disappointingly there seems to be an issue with fly tipping wherever we go.
When we are in the open we welcome these bus shelters for the shade they provide whilst we have a short break.
Floppy hats for us mean its becoming extremely hot although this is the last time you will see David wearing this hat. A light fingered guest removed it from his handlebars whilst he was having a last minute trip to the plumbing before setting off.
Not exactly fishing for sport like we see in Europe. We have no idea how many mouths he has to feed and this
Large parts of this stretch of inland are covered with mangroves and reminded us both of visits to Florida and the bayou in Louisiana, Thankfully we didn’t see any alligators – they would make us move faster than the wild dogs.
Time for the money collection at this convenience shop – his mate is inside collecting the money box.
The trees deny us views of the surrounding countryside along straight roads like this, however, we benefit from their shade and respite from headwinds now that we are largely aiming in an easterly direction.
We may be in remote areas with little infrastructure, however, there are always well maintained and colourful cemeteries.
The bridge over the river which signals our departure from the state of Tabasco into the state of Campeche. It has been so flat for days the only climbing we do is over these elevated road bridges.
We have the occasional exotic member of the lizard community for company at the roadside.
Whilst Mexico is not considered a third world country economically there are many people living in extremely basic conditions. We hesitate to ask what they do for power and water let alone mobile ‘phones and internet connections.
An overnight downpour left a lot of standing water. The main road soon drained although these side roads will take several days to dry out.
This blocked our progress to the one and only hotel in Nuevo Progreso so a detour around the residential neighbourhood was required to access our overnight accommodation.
When we arrived the Receptionist had difficulty finding the correct key for our room – he tried three rooms from a total of six before he found one that he could access – which, thankfully was on the ground floor.
The residents of this neighbourhood were fascinated by us both with a smartphone and wanting to video what, for them, are everyday scenes.
‘Pollos Asados’ are barbecued grilled chicken, and very nice they are too. Not one person has overcharged us, short changed us or expected a tip.
‘Water, water, everywhere but not a drop to drink’ – unless you buy it from the nearest shop.
Not only was this the only hotel in town but also it had other occupants than ourselves. We were already prepared for the cockroach and he met his timely end care of an anti insect spray. The ants climbing the wall were a different matter so to ensure peace of mind we erected our anti creepy crawley tent on the bed. It was successful.
We were awakened at 5.45 am by the loudest thunder and lightning we had heard for some years. There was no chance of us staying here another night and we would leave even if we had to swim out.

From Paraíso to Frontera

This chap was so impressed with our travel plans he gave us these Tabasco bracelets (the name of the state we’re in at this point). He was a contractor refurbishing one of the rooms next to ours.
The launderette opposite our hotel which rescued our clothes from their extended time on the beach.
A sign of the wealth and prosperity in these parts. Some of the properties are very posh, presumably employees of one of the 20 companies based at the Dos Bocas oil refinery.
We weren’t able to get much closer views than this from the road, however, we wikipedia’d the sight and the drone views of the plant are impressive to say the least.
Whilst it was an enlightening experience in the world of oil refineries we much prefer the open road and the nature that surrounds us every day.
A very posh roadside cafe – a waiter with an apron complete with house logo.
Today was our longest day on the bike – 75km – and although it has been flat going for several days we are now dealing with head winds as we travel east.
The only climb all day and it was at the end as we approach Frontera.
Whether it is a boat, car, or lorry, once it has fulfilled its usefulness they are abandoned and left to rot – often in the most scenic locations.
We haven’t left behind the mangroves yet.
Our favourite type of road house; ground floor where we can roll our bikes into the room with us and out again the next morning.
Dealing with keys often becomes as confusing as navigating the various plumbing systems we experience.

From Tupilco to Paraíso

The morning after the day/night before. At the end of our challenging day yesterday we made it to a shop which was about to close (the building behind the tent) because we needed water for our now planned stay on the beach. The man hearing our story offered his garden, which he hastily raked over and removed a tree stump from) and a bag of food of cooked chicken and rice which we assume he was planning to use for his family – there was so much of it. Thinking the camping angels were on our side we soon realised they had other plans. At 8pm the local community hall began its Saturday night’s entertainment which was the loudest and most bass level sound you could imagine and it was in the building next to the shop 50 metres away. What little sleep we had didn’t begin until the music finished at 1.45am
Obviously there was no one around when we left, presumably sleeping in after their exciting night out, so we conveyed our thanks and appreciation as shown.
This is the courtyard of the hotel in Paraiso where we should have been last night if we hadn’t run out of daylight – 12km short. After a day on the sand tracks and a night sleeping in/on the dirt we and the bikes were a mess. The clean up operation began with the bikes (a subsequent degreasing of all the oily bits took place after the bikes were dry), followed by the tent, and finally ourselves.
Although we had only cycled 12km on a quiet Sunday morning the clean up operation was as exhausting as a full day on the bike. The nearest restaurant supplied the necessary dinner to restore our energy.
Sights like this always amuse us – how does the liquid hand dispenser remain in place on the sink?
Everywhere we looked we saw people wearing orange boiler suits and we were curious to find out why.
We asked a fellow in the takeaway queue and he proudly explained that Paraiso has an onshore terminal of 566 hectares which employs 40,000 people and is the largest in Mexico, possibly the world.
Whilst this town was clearly more prosperous than many we had been through the young chap labouring on this road crew was barefoot.
This is how tortillas are mass produced.
The level of prosperity is such that even the taxis are a newer make and model compared to the old bangers we’re used to seeing.

From Sanchez Magallanes to Tupilco

The day began well with a moon shot.
We have completed 6 weeks at this point and we are still surprised with the level of security that people have here. Maybe they have reasons which are not immediately apparent to us. We spend our days totally in the open and exposed although at night we are too exhausted to be outside our accommodation.
Leaving Sanchez Magellanes was a delight which began with a few minutes watching the locals try and catch fish from a road bridge.
You can just see where the inland lagoon meets the Gulf of Mexico – not unlike river estuaries flowing out to sea.
We didn’t like to ask how many people this chap had to feed and hoped he had better luck after we left him.
The pelicans are much better fishermen than humans and only expend energy when their victim is targeted.
There is natural beauty in abundance and Olivia’s pictures will never do justice to the stunning scenes we enjoyed at every turn. There are palm trees by the thousand and the locals harvest the coconuts for themselves and to sell in distant towns and villages. We saw and heard many liberating coconuts with their machetes during the next 60 km (40 miles) although no one sold them at the roadside because hardly anyone was using this road. We were about to discover why very shortly.
Another expert fisherman who we see by the hundred every day in these mangrove and wetland areas.
David hesitated earlier to describe this stretch as like being in paradise because we have had to acquire means of self protection. The road is poorly maintained and not the ‘yellow’ road Sally told us it was. The houses, hamlets are very few and far between and almost all properties have dogs which are not use to ‘weirdos on wheels’. We are seen as fair game to be chased aggressively and their owners think it hugely hilarious weekend entertainment to see us fighting off their dogs. We encountered 12 such dogs today and when David managed to deter one from connecting with his ankle it chose to go for the nearside rear pannier. When we discovered 3 sizeable teeth marks we decided we had to do more than cycle faster whilst shouting at them. Olivia chose the stick hence the addition to the handlebar. David rode with his pepper spray in his hand. He takes no pleasure in confessing that it had to be used once later because there were 3 dogs either side of him.
Its challenging to demonstrate how uneven this surface is……………..and this was an easier stretch – at least we could ride on this surface.
Apart from the road it is a wonderfully natural and authentic landscape.
Whilst there are not any villages large enough for a central square and/or church there is one cemetery which appears to be better maintained than almost all their properties.
Now the fun and games begin. For those who are unaware touring road bicycles do not have wide enough tyres or deep enough tread to handle lose sand. There is no alternative than to dismount and walk. Bearing in mind David’s bike is carrying 30kg and Olivia’s bike is carrying 20kg this is easier said than done.
The few locals we saw all rode motorcycles and it is their tyre tracks with occasional foot marks where they needed to balance – cyclists to not have the convenience of an engine to propel them forward whilst using legs and feet for balance.
We probably walked as much as we rode on this day. In itself not a problem, however, we had not planned to be out overnight an water was running low. Sally had a lot to answer for with this recommendation.
Whilst David is turning the air blue with a few well chosen expletives, Olivia decides to take her pictures from a more distant location.
The road/track is not improving and we’re too far along to turn back.
Whilst we are in a paradise location which could have easily been used for those Bounty adverts in the 1970’s and 80’s we begin to see offshore oil rigs in a line along the coast. The proximity of modern technology to this haven of pristine beaches and palm trees took some getting used to although the majority of our time by this point was used to closely scrutinise the next 5 metres in front of us to ensure we remained upright, whether we were walking or riding.

The irony was not lost on us in that the town we were aiming for is called Paraiso (Paradise).
We saw 3 vehicles in 5 hours, one of which was stuck in the sand. We offered to help dig him out if he gave us a lift; he said no to us so we kept walking and riding – we were using daylight and could not be stuck out here without water.
Having realised the day was not going quite according to plan we discover the little bit of tarmac road there was now disappeared completely. A local told us that the storm we experienced over Christmas had wiped out the road here and it was sand all the way. We had to press on because we were too far along to turn back and, of course, there were those dogs to run the gauntlet with again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Palm fronds and coconut shells do not go to waste here; they are used to fill in holes and tracks to aid with traction – a little help to cyclists, however, more benefit to motorcyclists.
The first of ten such characters who hoped to relieve passers by of 10 pesos for the ‘privilege’ of travelling through their patch. The first nine did not try it on with us; the tenth was ignored by us – it was not a good day to get in our way.
The longest day continues – Sally will never be forgiven.
After 7,5 hours of riding and pushing we’re running out of daylight and we still have nowhere to stay (yes, we would have enjoyed sleeping on the beach) and, by now, no water.